Buffalo or Bison

Posted on January 12, 2012

I decided to take a day off at Liard Hot Springs after six days on the road. It was proving harder to put kilometers under the wheels of the Dummy than earlier in the trip. Hills, icy roads, colder temps, and headwinds were taking their toll on daily distances.

I started out down the highway when I noticed that the drive train was making a strange noise. I looked down and saw that I had broken one side of another link on my chain. I turned around and headed back the two km to the lodge at Liard Hot Springs. This time I decided to replace the entire chain (I picked one up in Fort Nelson).

Broken chain

I had been hearing about the Liard Buffalo for weeks: “They are monsters, some weighing 2,000 pounds.” “They hang around on the road cause they like the salt.” “they will not move for anything. You just have to wait for them to leave the road.” How would they react to a lone cyclist when a 50 ton semi does not phase them? Needless to say, I left Liard with a great deal of apprehension.

Bison Herd in search of salt on the roads

Mmmm salt.

I was not 10 km down the road when a guy I met at the lodge drove back to warn me of a herd on the road 5 km ahead. He offered to put the bike in the back of the truck and give me a ride through the danger. I told him of the importance, to me, of riding every meter under my own power and I asked if he had some time and if he would wait where they were for me. He agreed and I met up with him 5 km ahead. He would drive along side me and at any sign of danger I could jump in the truck.

My escort through herd of Bison

It turned out that bicycle is much more scary to a bison than a semi and the sight of me sent them running for the ditch. Thank goodness the instinct of flight is much stronger in herbivores than the instinct to fight.

For the next 200 km I encountered bison. They would run along side the road at approximately the same speed as me until they found a clearing in the woods to run into. At one point I “chased” three for a couple of kilometers until I hit a down hill stretch where I could out run (ride) them. This was somewhat disconcerting as I wondered if eventually they would decide they could not out run me and turn to confront me. I slowly passed them. A couple of kms further up the road I looked back. Now the the three were on the road and still running, towards me. Had the chaser become the chased? The hill ahead meant that they could catch me if that was their intent. I struggled up the hill looking back every minute. Eventually they gave up their pursuit, or whatever it was that led them to continue running.

At times I was startled when a lump of snow in the ditch started to move then got up and ran into the bush. The guy below barely acknowledged my presence as I stopped to take his picture.

Bison near Liard River

I was treated to a colourful display as the sun slowly descended the evening I left Liard. Colours here contrast sharply against what is a very black and white world.

Fiery sunset in a black & white world

As I have made my way north the increasing snow cover has made camping in the woods a difficult prospect (dragging my gear through waist deep snow is no fun). I have therefore had to find alternative camping sites. Mostly that has meant camping in rest stops, but these offer little protection from the wind. In Coal River I camped behind a lodge that was closed for the season.

Camping in Coal River

In Contact Creek I camped near a gas station. It was nice to get out of a cold tent and warm up in the store straight away.

Camping in Contact Creek

From Contact Creek I made my way to Watson Lake and my Couch Surfing hosts Barry and Sue, and their dog Robie.

Barry and Sue, and Robie

When I took off my socks, I suddenly realized that I had been careless with my feet. They had been numb for days. I managed to get frostbite on three toes without feeling a thing.

Frostbite

Spent the next few days in Watson Lake worrying about my toes, preparing for the next leg of the trip, and seeing the sights. The most famous of the sights is the Signpost Forest. The guy at the Northern Lights Centre said it is the largest collection of stolen public property in the world.

Signpost Forest

I was also treated to a winter storm. Love them.

Watson Lake

Before I left for my next leg of the journey I made sure to stock up on 7 days of food and extra treats, as the snacks on my way to Watson Lake had run out, and during the day I was munching on dry pasta.

Leaving Watson Lake

For the next stretch of the road I will be heading to Whitehorse, passing through Rancheria, Teslin & Marsh Lake.

Lonely Road

Posted on January 7, 2012

I said my goodbyes in Fort Nelson after a few days with some great people.

Saying goodbye to Richy

The weather had taken a turn for the colder since arriving in Fort Nelson.

Leaving Fort Nelson

Thirty kilometers into the ride the road split into two. My road would would take me to Whitehorse, the other turned north toward oil and gas country. I took the road less traveled and less “looked after”: bare pavement was replaced by icy patches and I felt more alone with the much reduced traffic. I also started the slow climb to Steamboat. I was leaving the foothills behind and heading back into the Rockies. That night I found a spot to camp in the woods, which was harder than before as there was a lot more snow and the trees were closer together.

The next day I headed towards Steamboat mountain. I was sure that I was at the top four or five times before I actually was. The weather was nice, providing the opportunity to take some short breaks basking in the sun (an opportunity that has been all to rare on this trip).

Climbing up Steamboat Mountain

When I finally reached to top, I pulled into the brake check area and asked a truck driver if he had any water that he could give me. Sure enough my thermoses were filled and I was ready to coast down from the pass. The weather (temperature) does interesting stuff in this area. Instead of getting colder as you climb, it warms up. On either side of Steamboat the temperature was -15 to -20, whereas at the top it was -5. I was told by locals that this is normal (always warmer at the top). The raising temps and the steep inclines meant I was wet when I got to the top and as a result, cold during the descent.

A couple of hours after dark I was at Tetsa River Services: a camp ground with cabins but mostly just gas in the winter. I asked the owner, Ben, about a place to stay. He immediately went and turned on the heat in a cabin, cooked me dinner (mmm ribs), then made me breakfast in the morning, and gave me one of his world famous cinnamon buns (I had heard about them a few times earlier on the road from various people). One of the many benefits of cycle touring is that you can enjoy billion calorie treats with no regrets. He would not accept any money for the above, including three root beers and a bag of chips.

The next day I was on my way up to Summit Pass, which at 1,267 meters, is the highest point on the Alaska highway. Summit is meant to be easier than than Steamboat, but with a monster headwind it wasn’t. During my many shorts breaks I headed into the bush to get out of the wind.

Seeking Refuge from Headwinds

I was most decidedly back in the Rocky Mountains. However, they look quite different than when I emerged from them heading out of Jasper. Not sure if it is the northern latitudes or simply a lack of a medium to grow in on these mountains, but few trees grow above a certain level on the mountains here. And some have geometric lines that look suspiciously like the hands of people were involved (did the ancient Egyptians get this far north?).

Pyramid (?) Mountain

A tree line of sorts

The descent from Summit was nice. After the initial steep inclines it leveled out to a slow decline over many kilometers.

Descending from Summit Pass

I spent that night at Toad River Lodge, home to a massive hat collection nailed to the ceiling. The sign reads: “hat count: 8075″.

Hats in Toad River Lodge

The next day I started out with the ambitious plan that I would ring in the new year relaxing in the Liard River hot springs. Headwinds and lots of hills derailed those plans.

World of black & white along way to Liard

A world of black & white

It was not till New Year’s day that I was in Liard. When I got there it was dark and there were only three other people at the springs: the guys from the band that played the New Year’s bash the night before. I was hesitant to get in as it would mean getting my swim trunks wet and then having to figure out how to dry them at -20. So ‘au naturel’ was the solution. I think it was as nice alternative to the traditional new years polar bear swim. The guys offered beer and the water felt divine after days of biking.

Camping at Liard Hot Springs

The next morning the guys from the band were back and I set up for another day in Liard before heading back on the road toward Watson Lake.

Fresh out of Liard Hot Springs

Solstice

Posted on December 28, 2011

Given its solitary nature, this trip is as much an internal journey within my head as it is physical challenge for my body. Long days alone on the bike provide ample opportunity for introspection. However, a subplot of the story of my trip is to witness a slice of life in the north, meeting people with lives very different from my own. And during this leg of the trip I felt I had reached the north. It hit me particularly when an eight-year-old girl pulled up to a gas station I was stopped at in Pink Mountain, on a snowmobile with her five-year-old brother on the back. She has been driving snowmobiles since she was four.

Snowmobiling near Pink Mountain

This part of the world is rich with oil and gas and jobs and money are plentiful. I met a rig worker named John who recently got out of prison and says that he managed to get this job only because he is willing to work over Christmas. He is planning on saving the money from the job to check himself into rehab. Dustin is a first nations youth who is set to turn 20 in a few weeks and on his reserve that means he will receive a $100,000 payout for oil and gas royalties. When I asked him what he planned to do with the money, he answered: “give it to my girlfriend.”

It is also interesting to see the reaction of people to my trip, both good and bad. The overwhelming majority of the reaction has been positive and generous. From people opening up their homes to me, to people stopping on the highway to ask if there is anything I need. (I almost always need something to drink). One of the more interesting gifts I received I found as I reached the top of a hill. I saw two small silver packages at the side of the road standing up in the snow. As I approached I wondered how they ended up there, standing up. I was not sure if they were full or empty. It was not till I had passed them that I realized someone must have left them for me. Thanks anonymous GU donor.

Mystery of the GU

The negative reactions to my presence on the road are most normally seen when vehicles intentionally do not leave much room between themselves and me when there is no oncoming traffic. But at the restaurant at Mile 53, where I was having a hot chocolate I overheard a table of young men talking about me. The word “jackass” was used.

Looking at the maps before leaving Fort St. John, I was unsure what the road ahead might bring. But I was glad to see that they have made improvements to the highway since the picture below was taken.

Historical picture of the Alaska Highway

I knew the gaps between towns and stores would get larger and larger. I prepared myself for days on the bike and in the tent. But lo-and-behold fifty or so kilometers on my way I came upon a nice restaurant with a fire and wifi access. It was too tempting and I stopped to warm up. The battle for kilometers started. Warm fires and food pose a particular challenge to my progress.

I found a nice spot and camped near Pink mountain. When I was setting up camp I noticed some wolf prints in the snow. Interesting but not worrisome.

On day three the winds were fierce. They started at 60km/hr and worked their way up to 90km/hr. I was constantly battling the gusts which pushed me off the road and into the ditch a few times.

Fighting a head wind

I was quite happy when I came across a work camp in Buckinghorse River. I jokingly asked about rates for people biking to the Arctic and got an offer I couldn’t refuse. The folks at the camp went above and beyond. It was a great antidote to a day that had me pretty demoralized.

The next day I planned to get most of the way to Fort Nelson. It was Christmas eve. The weather cooperated and it was a beautiful, dry and completely wind free. After about 120kms I decided I was feeling good enough to make it all the way. I arrived in Fort Nelson to my host Richy and his two basset hounds around 10:30.

Bertie the Bassett Hound

Richy invited me along for Christmas dinner with friends (the Vandersteens). I had a great time with great people and great food. I also got to touch base with Michelle and my family later in the evening.

Christmas dinner in Fort Nelson

The winter solstice arrived during this leg – which usually means the days will be getting longer. But as I continue Northward I should outpace the increasing daylight. I have enjoyed biking at night; it is quiet and the moonlight has its own particular feel to it. But I have to admit, the novelty of riding in the dark is starting to wear off. I realize I prefer to see the end of the hill ahead and not just 50 feet in front of me.

I’ve had a chance to rest once again and now will head northwest to Watson Lake and Whitehorse. I suspect the gaps will be longer on this route but I’ll be keeping my eyes open for nice camping spots and camps where ever possible. I am particularly looking forward to Liard Hot Springs.

Back in British Columbia

Posted on December 21, 2011

Entering BC

The name of the game in Grande Prairie was laziness: not good for me to have a big TV in front of my bed, I get distracted. In my defense I was fighting off a bit of a cold, with a nasty cough, and Myles and Esther were complicit in my lethargy with their “you can stay as long as you like” and “if you stay, we are having X for dinner”. Then the day I was packing up to go, it was raining, and just could not do it. I convinced myself it was OK as the next day I would go directly to Dawson Creek (originally I had planned to split it in two days). My laziness was rewarded once again with a great day of cycling under a big blue prairie sky. I was a little sad that this will be the only day of prairie riding this trip.

Road to Dawson Creek

For the first time in weeks I had some towns between my start and end points. I took full advantage, stopping for some hot chocolate and French fries in Beaverlodge. On the way out of town I encountered a big scary beaver that must be their mascot. I never did find out his name, if he has one.

Beaverlodge's giant beaver

When I reached Dawson Creek, the pizza was almost ready at my Couch Surfing hosts Jen and Dan’s place. They have hosted a number of touring cyclists, including a French guy who was circumnavigating the globe completely on his own power: pedalling the Atlantic and paddling the Pacific.

The next day started with a strong headwind, knee pain and a cough. The latter two left early while the former eventually morphed into a cross wind. Dawson Creek is Mile zero on the Alaska Highway and looking at the sign with its big “0″, I couldn’t help feeling like I was just getting started. It is the sign post of a new beginning I suppose, as the trip gets more adventurous and I leave “civilization” behind and enter the true north where people carry extra jerrycans of fuel and winter survival gear in their vehicles; where I have to carry 4-5 days of food on the bike and enough gasoline to cook it and melt snow for water (it has never been heavier).

Mile 0

As the day wore on the landscape and rivers provided a nice distraction from the relentless wind. I got to see the mighty Peace River, something I had been looking forward to for a long time. All of these big northern rivers eventually feed the Mackenzie, which I will cross as I approach Inuvik. As I watched the water under the bridge I threw in a little twig I had in my pocket and thought “you will get to Inuvik before I do”.

Kiskatinaw River

Looking longingly at the Peace River

I arrived in Fort St. John early as the distance was short this day. My hosts Lyall and Sheila had dinner plans at Sheila’s cousins and I was invited along. And what a dinner it was. I am not sure if they were impressed or horrified at my ability to put away food (the roast was cooked to perfection), but I think I managed to eat as much as everyone else at the table, put together. I even managed to get full for a few hours, no easy task when I am cycle-touring.

Dinner in Fort St. John

I would like to give a special thanks to Lyall and Sheila Insull, and Lori and Steven Petrucci for their extremely generous donations to my trip.

Today I leave for Fort Nelson, I might have less access to the internet and will most probably be updating by SPOT and phone calls as I will be mostly camping from now on.

Turning North

Posted on December 15, 2011

It was with much trepidation that I started up the Alaska Highway. Would my knee hold out or would I once again be forced to stop? As I climbed away from the Athabasca River, the familiar feeling in my knee returned after a couple of kilometers, but with more manageable pain. I stopped to stretch and that seemed to help a little, as did the acupuncture to release the tight muscles. (A pattern seems to have developed for my knee pain: It hurts when I start to ride but eventually the pain subsides.) Soon the day turned into what can only be described as cycling bliss, -5 and sunny riding on a dry road: a day that reminded me why I love touring on a bicycle.

Leaving the Athabasca watershed

As the sun went down the temperature dropped quickly and by the time I was over half way to Grande Cache and had found my campsite (50 meters from the road in among pine trees), it was -20. I tried to light a fire with dry grass but had no luck. Then I remembered that I was carrying gasoline. It lights well at any temp. Soon I had a blazing fire and was toasty warm.

The next morning the inside of the tent was covered in frost. I quickly got the fire going again to melt snow for the day’s water. I expected the day to be an easy ride into Grande Cache, but the wind gods had different ideas. The headwinds grew stronger throughout the day and at one point maintaining 10 km/h on the flats was difficult. Early in the day I came across a semi that was stuck on a side road. The driver asked if I could drive a semi or heavy machinery. I offered to pull him out with the dummy but he was skeptical. He later passed me on the highway.

Stuck semi

I managed to climb the final hill into Grande Cache, exhausted. Jerald, my couch surfing host, met me at the Esso. Shortly thereafter I was at Jerald and Wendee’s place enjoying a stir fry. Jerald likes to spend his off time in the summer white water rafting, kayaking and canoeing. Grande Cache offers ample opportunity for that. Jerald’s stories of polar bears when he was working in the north made me question my understanding that they will all be out on the ice when I am up there. More research and perhaps a call to wildlife officials up there may be in order.

The road out of Grande Cache to Grande Prairie initially follows the Smoky River (190 km between the two without a single habitation). I love riding along rivers, especially downstream. After 30 km I found myself on a long climb out of the valley.

Climbing out of the Smoky River valley

The vastness of the country comes into consciousness on rides like these: for mile after mile all you can see is forest. On a bike you feel like the only person for limitless distances (when there are no vehicles). And with lots of time to contemplate your place in the vastness, it is hard not to wax existential. But in this part of our vast country when the sun goes down, all the activity around comes into view. The horizon fills up with the lights from the fires of all the gas plants. And they were not the only fires that night. Slash piles were burning in all the recently logged areas. At a few points the smoke on the road was so bad my lungs hurt and the ash burned in my eyes. I went further than I had intended on this day in order to find a spot to set up camp where there was no chance of smoke.

Water became an issue again, but when someone pulled over to ask if I needed help, he had a couple of litres to give me (melting snow takes so much time). The good folks at Valhalla Pure here in Grande Prairie donated a thermos for my trip. Now I have more capacity for water - Thanks!

The next morning I built a fire and filled my thermoses with water from melted snow. My sleeping bag was a little wet by morning as the humidity in the air was high. This is something I have to be vigilant about: a wet sleeping bag is a cold sleeping bag as the down loses its loft.

Winter camping on route to Grande Prairie

I have to admit that the ride into Grande Prairie was not one of my favourites. I was tired after the long previous day, and the humidity made everything feel cold and uncomfortable. Needless to say, I was happy to see the city and even happier to get into the warmth of Myles and Esther’s apartment.

Tomorrow I’m back on the trail, and leave for Dawson Creek and then Fort St. John.

Back on the Road

Posted on December 11, 2011

Saturday Dec 3rd I was back on the road to Hinton. I started out from Jasper with a dry highway and renewed vigour after a couple of days off. Not too long into the ride my knee started to hurt and it started to snow. I pushed on hoping the pain was just a momentary issue, and would work itself out. But, that was not the case. I had to relent and get off the bike.

Riding into Hinton

Rocky, my host in Hinton met me along the route and we went to his place. Here I rested and re-assessed the situation. I had been prepared for all of these challenges…bad weather, icy roads, decapitating polar bears (yes…this was mentioned in a forum). But my knee acting up, my body rebelling against me…well that was something I suppose I put to the bottom of the list.

I decided the best course of action was to give my knee a rest. Erin and Jeff (my sister and her husband) put me up at their place in Jasper. (Or more accurately perhaps, put up with me). Resting admittedly, isn’t something I am good at. I’d prefer to be in motion. At rest I become…well…restless.

Acupuncture treatment for my ailing knee

Sean FitzGerald at Jasper Physiotherapy generously volunteered his services and worked on my knee. I got the go ahead to get back on my bike at the end of the week, but with the caveat that I needed to put less kilometers on the road. So Friday I headed out. The ride was fast, with the winds furiously blowing across Jasper Lake and pushing me along. In three hours I was in Hinton. My knee, unfortunately aching once again.

Beautiful mountain views from Jasper out to Hinton

Jolene Albrecht of Shan Wellness in Hinton gave me acupuncture and even met me on her day off to give me a second treatment. Once again I decided to look at the bike set up. I had suspected it might be my boots. There is a whole science to setting up yourself properly on a bike and each person’s physiology changes that set up. The wrong shoes, seat height, foot position, can cause a dangerous misalignment. The 420lbs I’m pushing doesn’t help either so I do keep an eye on my cadence, keeping it high. I’m crossing the potential culprits off the list systematically.Today, I am removing the pegs from one side of my right pedal to allow for more foot movement, hopefully taking pressure off the knee. I’ll test this out next, as I venture on toward Grande Cache.

From Kamloops to Jasper

Posted on December 3, 2011

Lessons learned so far:

1 - Do not put a merino wool sweater in the dryer – even on delicate. (I’m told this may be obvious to most of you)

2 - Buy quality – I have tried to balance safety and quality with a limited budget – but sometimes this costs more in the end – I have already had to buy new boots after the inexpensive ones I bought started to fail after pretty limited use. (Argh!)

3 – People will surprise you along the road. I am truly grateful for the generosity of new friends and even perfect strangers. A warm place to rest and recoup or warm croissant to fill my belly. It all makes the journey so much easier. Especially after long, wet days.

A few updates:
The distances in kilometers up to Tuktoyaktuk have been added on the Route page as well as links to newspaper articles and t.v. interviews on the new Media page…we’ll update this as I meet new people along the way.

Trip update – Kamloops to Clearwater (123km)
Sunday morning I was on the road again and heading toward Jasper. It was a day with two faces. The first was sublime: 11 degrees with a tail wind; cycling on the winding, car-less, west side of the North Thompson; surrounded by the smells of a boreal autumn; and then a new experience: a ride on a reaction ferry (this is where the ferry is positioned at a 45 degree angle to the flow of the river and is pulled across on a cable by the current; to go back, the ferry is positioned at 45 degrees the other way).

Reaction Ferry across the North Thompson

Shortly after I returned to the main highway, however, the day showed its other face: a headwind with driving rain and sleet. This challenged me for the next half of the trip. Fortunately, in Clearwater I found a great gas station with a Skype phone to call anywhere in the world for free (I took the opportunity for a nice long call home). That night I found a great spot to camp at the front door of the info center that was closed for the season.

Camping in Clearwater

Clearwater to Blue River (105km)

The next day was a nice long gradual climb toward Blue River with a beautiful mountain pass at Messiter Summit. Sweating has proven to be the issue I thought it would be. It’s annoying now but can be dangerous when it’s cold out. Having layers that wick away the moisture is key and keeping a pace that doesn’t warm me up is equally important. Ironic how the worst problem in the cold is getting too hot.

At the end of the day in Blue River, I stopped at a restaurant for some food. When I asked about potential spots to set up camp, a very kind guy offered to put me up in a hotel. It was an offer I couldn’t resist. I will have lots of camping ahead of me beyond Jasper.

Blue River to Valemount (92km)

…. a day riding in the snow. Tom, my ‘Warm Showers’ host in Valemount got a little worried when I did not appear after dark, so he went out on the highway to find me. He found me 5 kilometers from town struggling up a hill. As he approached the hill he could see my headlight dancing back and forth in the sky (it is hard to ride straight up a hill with all that weight). My Trelock light powered by the dynamo hub has truly proven itself. Cars often flash their brights, that is just how bright it is.

Leaving Blue River

Tom and I spent the evening talking about bicycle touring in different parts of the world. Tom and his partner Peggy like to do a big tour in Europe or Canada every summer and then spend the winter skiing deep in the backcountry around Valemount.

Tom - my host in Valemount

Valemount to Jasper (126km)

This leg proved far more grueling than expected. I intended to get a reasonably early start for the long ride to Jasper but I had a few stops to make first. Tom organized an interview with the local paper, The Rocky Mountain Goat, and I made a stop at the Valemount Swiss Bakery on the way out of town. I was intending to get just enough food to last me till Jasper but after I chose my supplies they decided to give me enough bread and pastries to last me half way to Tuktoyaktuk! (delicious). I also met a local snow-mobile guide who showed me a very interesting way to stave off frost bite on the nose. (Red Green would be proud)

Learning new tricks

Finally on the road, I was pushing against a brutal headwind and had waves of slush splashing over me as the trucks rolled by. This is the problem when the temperatures are just around zero. Thankfully, the clear day that I had been hoping for materialized and I was able to catch sight of the most majestic mountain I have ever seen, Mount Robson.

Mount Robson

Unfortunately, as the sun dropped so did the temperature and the road turned to sheer ice. After falling over on the highway, I decided I would have to ride through the snow on the shoulder which hampered my progress. I pulled into Jasper at 11:00, tired and ready for a rest.

Next leg of the journey

I have family in Jasper and have had a chance to visit, re-energize and get ready for the next leg of this journey. I am leaving this morning for Hinton and then heading to Grande Cache, Grande Prairie and Dawson Creek.

Cycling into the Dark

From Vancouver to Tuktoyaktuk – Exploring the possibilities of self-propelled travel